NEW! -
Stretch Pinwale Corduroy
New fashion colours
and fabric in stretch corduroy were secured from a
Montreal-based textile supplier to the garment
industry. This is
a very fine pinwale stretch corduroy that has the look of sueded
velveteen until you get close up. The weight is perfect
for pants, a casual shirt or lightweight jacket. A touch
of spandex adds to the comfort and recoverability.
Content: 97% cotton, 3% spandex
Price: $13.50/ metre
Width: 112 cm / 44"
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Choosing the Right Style:
Stretch fabrics such as this corduroy are very popular in
ready-to-wear and designer garments. As you browse the
garment racks in your favourite fashion stores, look for
garments that are marked "Stretch", and note the design.
Stretch fabrics of similar weight are used in jean-style pants,
trousers and slacks. Pants with smooth lines are best,
while those with pleats and fully gathered waists will not work
as well. Also consider sports shirts, straight skirts and
casual jackets.
The other thing to remember about cotton fabrics such as
corduroy is that the fabric will catch and ride up on skirts as
you walk. I have learned this the hard way. I
purchased a designer stretch cotton skirt recently at Talbot's
in Boston, MA. But I am forever adjusting and pulling it
down as I walk and sit. It definitely calls for a lining. |
Design Considerations:
Layout and Cutting:
Like all corduroy, this fabric has a nap and you
will need to determine the direction of the nap. Run your
fingers along the lengthwise grain: one way will feel
slightly smoother than the other. The garment should be
cut with the smoothness running down. In other words, when
the garment is on the body, if you run your fingers down the
fabric, it should feel smooth. It's a good idea to mark
the fabric with the direction of the grain using masking tape or
arrows in the selvedges. Use the fabric requirements for
"with nap" and cut the pattern pieces using the "with nap"
layout. Fold the fabric with the napped side on the inside
before you pin your pattern pieces.
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Pattern Suggestions:
Once you see a garment
you like, look for a sewing pattern with similar
characteristics. Some patterns are designed specifically
for use with stretch wovens but others for woven will also work,
if you take into account the properties of the spandex in the
fabric. The spandex provides additional wearing ease so
you may have to pin fit before you decide on exactly how much to
adjust for the stretch.
Kwik-Sew suggested patterns:
KS-3369
Women's Jean Jackets
KS-3340
Misses' Shorts & Pants
KS-3315 Misses' Stretch
Jeans
KS-3251
Men's Jean Jackets
KS-2895
Misses' Jean Jackets
KS-2933 Girl's Pants & Vest
Petite Plus suggested patterns:
PP-101
Zip Front Jacket
PP-104
Shapely Shirt
PP-203
Wrap Jacket & Blouse
PP-303
All Season Dress
The Classics suggested patterns:
TC-104 Fearless Casual Jacket
TC-105
Fearless Fitted Pants
TC-108 Fearless Fitted Jacket & Vest |
Sewing: A Universal 80/12 machine needle
with a good quality polyester thread such as Mettler or
Gutterman at a stitch length between 2.0 and 2.5 is best.
Do not pull the seams so not to stretch the fabric as you sew.
If you have one, a walking foot helps feed the fabric evenly.
You may have to stabilize curved or bias seams with
stay-stitching or fusible tricot interfacing. Hems and
zipper seams should also be stabilized with a strip of fusible
tricot interfacing to prevent stretching and resultant waviness
that can occur on stretch fabrics.
Fabric and Garment Care: Prewash the uncut
fabric in the machine on gentle cycle using warm water and a
mild cleaner such as Eucalan. Dry in your dryer on low or
hang to dry until just damp and place in the dryer for a few
minutes to take out any wrinkles.
Press the fabric
lightly on the wrong side on a medium setting with steam.
Do not press too hard or the nap will become flattened. If
the nap becomes flattened you can use a clean, fine fabric brush
to gently lift the nap. Brush in the direction of the nap
(smooth direction).
Stretch fabrics are
wonderful because they provide wearing ease and comfort and nice
recovery, but as with any stretch fabric too much heat in the
washer, dryer or by pressing will destroy the spandex fibres and
cause the garment to shrink. |
