Distinctive Sewing Supplies

PROJECTS

Welcome to the Projects Page

The projects page always held a lot of promise.  However, it's been blank for at least two years, so something had to be done. Now it will be Catherine's blog page.  Blog is such a funny word; something between a bog and a log?  Hopefully some useful information will appear here from time to time that will benefit and peak the interest of fashion sewers that come across my website...

Jan. 26, 2008 - Machine Knitting--A Tale of Two Crafts

Like many fashion sewists I have a multitude of hobbies.  One of mine is machine knitting.  I never really mastered the craft of hand knitting; preferring to crochet where I only had to deal with one hook and one stitch at a time.  As a result, about 15 years ago, I took up machine knitting.  I thought machine knitting would be easier than hand knitting:  Let the machine take care of all those needles and stitches, and I will do the rest.  Not so!  The entire garment has to be planned in advance.  And the machine has a way of dropping stitches and the yarn has a way of tangling up, when you aren't paying attention.  However, I was determined not to let any machine get the best of me, and I am persevering.  Why bring this up here?  Well, I am looking at ways of combining my two favourite hobbies--fashion sewing and machine knitting..

Two weekends ago, my daughter, my sister-in-law and I spent Saturday shopping around Chinatown and Queen St. W. in the fashion district in Toronto.  We started the day off with Dim Sum at the Sky Dragon on Spadina and Adelaide Streets.  With our appetites taken care of, we wandered the shops looking at Cheongsams, Kimonos and Chinese Pajamas.  These all reminded me of my Asian Folkwear patterns and their creative possibilities.  Next we moved on to the fabric shops; dropping into The Wool House to say hello and eyeing some wonderful suiting.  Then, we were onto MacFab to see what was new.  To my disappointment, but I guess to many sewers' delight, the store is almost entirely home dec.  And the bargain basement, were some fashion fabric gem usually lies in wait, was closed.  I was interested to see that they have added Alexander Henry prints to their offering.

So were is this all leading?  The real target of this trip for me was Romni Wools.  A great big wool shop, I go right past the thousands of skeins and balls of yarn, down to the basement.  There I find two big rooms jammed to the ceiling with shelves of cone yarns.  Cone yarns are best for machine knitting.  There are cotton ribbon yarns, metallic yarns, eyelash and acrylics.  And I came away with a lovely multi-colour yarn to work with my exclusive Bali rayon Azure Effect.  I have completed a number of tension swatches using machine knit patterns and they are now draped over a bolt of Azure Effect, waiting for some additional inspiration from me to morph them into a garment...

Jan. 13, 2008 - More about adding sleeves to the Kintamani Top

Today I was working on the pattern layout and cutting for the  BC101 Kintamani Top & Tunic from the Bali Collection illustrated below.  I discovered to my delight that I could add the sleeves from BC105 Spice 'n Style top without using more fabric than what was required for the Kintamani Top (View B medium length).  When making the Kintamani Top, I cut a Size Medium at the neck, shoulders and sleeves, but I go to to Size Large by drawing a straight line from the bust to the hip.  That's the beauty of multi-sized patterns.

If you are Size Medium or smaller, no additional fabric needs to be purchased to add the Spice 'n Style sleeve.  Sizes Large and up, will require an additional 0.5 metres (allows for shrinkage) to the fabric requirement to include the sleeve. I could fit one sleeve (single layer) alongside one tunic pattern if I folded the fabric just enough to accommodate the front and the back pattern pieces (pieces are pinned at the centre to the fold.  Just remember when you are cutting the sleeve to flip the pattern over for the second cut.

The fabric I am using for the top is BR500 Forest Sashiko Bambu.  It is a one-way design with a definite direction, so I am using a with nap layout to ensure that the pattern pieces are lined up correctly and the print will be going the correct way on the garment.

Jan. 1, 2008 - Combining patterns to make an outfit using the Bali Collection.

Using a croquis and my paint program, I have taken three patterns from the Bali Collection and designed a complete outfit.  The top is from pattern BC101 Kintamani Top & Tunic .  I have chosen the medium length and added the sleeves from BC105 Spice 'n Style top.  The sleeves go together nicely with the Kintamani top with some minor truing up at the sleeve seam resulting in a 3/4 length sleeve.  The skirt is the newest pattern from the Bali Collection, BC107 The Malibu Skirt in the ankle length.  The medium length top with 3/4 length sleeves balances out the longer skirt length.  For the fabric, I have chosen BR501  Forest Effect for the skirt and BR500 Forest Sashiko Bambu for the top.    Here is the concept diagram for this design:

Why is this such a great outfit?  It is elegant, flattering and comfortable suitable for dining out or cocktail parties.  In drapey rayon, the top falls softly from the shoulders and bust line, skimming any figure challenges.  Notice all the slimming horizontal lines.  The addition of the sleeves gives protection and covers the upper arm for those who wish to do so.  The elastic back waist of the skirt is comfortable and will continue to fit if your waistline changes.  The mock wrap reveals nothing when walking and sitting.

Using my paint program helps me audition the fabric in my diagram, keeping in mind that the "fabric" is from only a small swatch and will not look exactly as shown here.  I chose these two fabrics because they co-ordinate so well and green is one of my most flattering colours to wear.  The fabric for the skirt has been cut out and construction has begun.  I will post a picture when the garments are completed.

Jan. 1, 2008 - Using a Croquis

I like to visualize garments that I am going to make before I prepare any cloth or patterns.  A great way to do that is to use a croquis (kroh-kee).

Threads magazine provides a whole family of croquis online that you can download and print for your personal use.  The URL to the Threads' croquis is: http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00147.asp.

The Threads croquis family is realistic in proportion and includes an adult male, child, toddler, average woman, petite woman and plus-sized woman.  Fashion croquis on the other hand are quite elongated to provide a tall slender figure popular in fashion sketches.

You can even create your own croquis by taking a photograph of yourself and outlining your figure, scanning it into your computer; using your paint program to create an outline and size it to print.  If you keep your back issues of Threads, June/July 2006 had an article on how to make a personal croquis from a photograph.  This URL gives a preview: http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/th_125_051.asp

I personally like to use the croquis that came with a book I purchased a couple of years ago called "Make It Your Own: Personalizing Patterns for Creative Design" by Lori Bottom, Ronda Chaney.  This book was issued in 1999 and is currently out of print.  I was lucky enough to get a copy for myself and a friend through Barnes and Noble.  The book gives copyright-free use of the croquis to the book owner.

Jan. 1, 2008 - In 2008 I will spend more time sewing

The snow is falling softly outside and I am thinking about changes for the New Year.  The usual resolutions come to mind:  eat better, exercise more, lose weight, take better care of myself and be a kinder, gentler person.  It doesn't seem like much but when the pressures of family, job and business mount, it seems that forces take over and control is ever more difficult to grasp.  Well, there are some certainties in all this.  I cannot eat, drink and sew at the same time.  Since I love to sew and sewing is a pleasure that takes over my senses, it is logical that the more time I spend sewing, the less time I will spend eating.  And since sewing makes me happy, the more I sew, the kinder and more gentler I will become.  All that remains to take care of is the exercise bit...

Dec. 28, 2007 - Sewing shows in 2008

I am well into planning sewing shows for 2008.  Distinctive Sewing Supplies be doing some new shows this year.  The Edmonton Creative Stitches show in March has been booked, and I am seriously considering the Calgary Creative Stitches show in September.  I will be missing the American Sewing Expo in Novi, Michigan and the Inspirational Needlecraft show in Ottawa, Ontario. Distinctive Sewing Supplies will return to the two CreativFestival shows, Spring and Fall as they are the largest and most exciting of all shows.  Please check the Events Page periodically to see what's coming up.

Dec. 23, 2007 - Boxing Day and New Years specials

Yesterday my family visited Black Creek pioneer village and enjoyed the traditional Christmas dinner at the Half Way House.  This visit has become an annual tradition and helps restore my soul with some of that holiday spirit that often gets lost in the hustle and bustle of malls and parking lots.  Of course, I marvel at the primitive hand cranked sewing machine that only the wealthiest families could afford.  The handmade quilts, ornaments, laces and garments are a feast for my eyes.  To everyone, however you celebrate or mark the passing of the winter solstice and the entrance of the New Year, good wishes.

Dec. 4, 2007 - A sewing notebook and pen

It is 4:53 a.m.  The coffee is on (of course). I was ill all day yesterday with a sprained foot--not sure how that happened but I think it had something to do with the snow shoveling--and a sick headache.  I felt I lost a precious amount of time but as I laid in bed, between naps, I had my trusty notebook, and a stack of patterns to plan my sample garments.  I now have five solid ideas that I'm ready to implement. The same thinking that goes into planning sample garments can apply to planning a wardrobe to sew.  I pull out the patterns I have collected and my fabrics.  I mix and match, play with them in different combinations.  Then the ideas begin to flow and I sketch them out roughly on paper.   Then I make a note of the pattern, the view and the fabric.

Dec. 2, 2007 - Organizing pattern pieces

It is 4:40 a.m.  The coffee pot is brewing and I am in my studio trying to sort out pattern pieces that have been scattered all over the place.  I have to put them back in order, because I need them to start my new projects. I marvel at how such a mess could have accumulated!  I have discovered that clear plastic bags are the best way to deal with patterns.  Rarely can I fit the tissues back into the paper envelopes without tears and I want to be able to identify the pattern at a glance.

Dec. 1, 2007 - A lesson I learned from Mother Theresa

I am thinking about sewing sample garments for the upcoming spring shows.  I have so many ideas, my head is spinning.  I keep a small notebook with me at all times to jot down thoughts that could strike at any time.  If I'm delayed by circumstances beyond my control (a signal problem on the GO train, the doctor or dentist running late, a delayed flight), I always feel better when I have my fashion sewing to focus on.  No longer do I a pace or fret.  These moments are like gifts and I use them well.